The internet is full of reports about the disappearance of Kris and Lisanne in Panama, and everyone knows they disappeared in the forest. However, very few have a clear picture of what the Pianista Trail, which leads into this forest, actually looks like. I want to shed some light on that here. This text focuses only on the hike up to the summit, the Mirador. In a follow-up, I will soon describe the trail beyond the Mirador.
The Pianista Trail in Panama was not originally created as a hiking trail for tourists but as a trade route for indigenous people living in villages between Boquete and the Caribbean coast. However, it has established itself as an adventurous hiking trail for tourists, winding through lush vegetation and dense forest, past idyllic streams and colorful flowers. The route is popular with tourists, yet on most days, you’ll only occasionally encounter other hikers. It’s far less crowded than, for example, the Waterfall Trail in Boquete.
The route and its challenges
The Pianista Trail in Panama is about 4.5 kilometers long. Since you turn back at the summit and retrace your steps, the total distance is 9 kilometers. This route leads through various ecological zones – from open pastures to dense jungle vegetation, up to the aforementioned mountain summit, where it’s often so foggy that you can’t see more than 20 meters ahead.
The hike starts with relatively gentle inclines, but soon the slopes become steeper – a challenge for many hikers. The path leads through a cloud forest, an exciting ecosystem with high humidity. Moss climbs up tree trunks, and water droplets hang lazily from thick leaves. I find this section of the trail particularly fascinating, as it has a mystical atmosphere. Mist drifts by, the trees rustle like waves on the sea, and in the distance, you can hear quetzals calling.
The steeper sections of the trail require good physical condition and sure-footedness, as the path is often muddy and slippery, especially during the rainy season. Sturdy footwear is essential, and hiking poles are helpful for increased stability. Even if the sun is shining and the sky is blue in the valley, it’s advisable to pack a light jacket. The weather in the cloud forest can change quickly, and it’s often quite windy at the Mirador. Sudden rain showers can also occur.
The highlight of the hike (but only in clear weather) is the summit – also called the Mirador – of the Pianista Trail, at about 2,000 meters above sea level. Here, in good weather, you’re treated to a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. And the best part: you can see the Pacific coast on one side and the Caribbean coast on the other. Panama’s landscape, with its incredible shades of green, can be admired here in all its glory.
The tunnels or hollow ways on the Pianista Trail in Panama
A few hundred meters before the summit, the sides of the path suddenly rise, so you’re no longer just walking on the trail but within it. The side walls close in on you from the right and left, leaving only the option to move forward or back. On this side of the mountain, these walls or tunnels reach about two meters high in some places, but never for long. Beyond the Mirador, the hollow ways become longer, and the walls higher. This is also a reason never to continue beyond the summit alone.
Personally, I really like these hollow ways because I’ve never seen or experienced anything like them anywhere else. Animals live in them, birds nest in the walls enclosing the trail, and you find the most beautiful flowers. It’s truly an adventure to squeeze through here.
Flora and fauna along the trail
The Pianista Trail in Panama is also known for its rich biodiversity. The cloud forest is home to plant and animal species that you won’t find in Europe. Hikers are sure to see rare orchids, ferns, and bromeliads that only live in humid climate.
The wildlife is impressive too, but you need a bit of luck and a good eye (or an experienced guide) to spot it: many different bird species are native to this area. For example, the quetzal – for many tourists, the main reason to travel to Central America. This colorful bird plays a role in the mythology of indigenous peoples and is a particular highlight for ornithologists. Some say it’s the most beautiful bird in the world.
In very rare cases, mammals like agoutis and monkeys appear. Out of the seven times I’ve hiked this part of the Pianista Trail in Panama, I’ve only seen monkeys once (and once more beyond the Mirador). So, it’s best not to get your hopes up too high.
More frequently, I’ve encountered super interesting insects, reptiles, and amphibians. Small snakes dart into the underbrush, spiders perch in their webs five meters above, and lizards stare at you as you walk by. A few times, I’ve heard a frog that caught my attention because its whistling sounded quite different from the frogs I know. Without Feliciano, who knows most of the noises here, I could only have guessed what kind of animal it was. As a hiker, you should be attentive and cautious and not disturb the wildlife.
Encounters with people on the Pianista Trail
The Pianista Trail in Panama passes by pastures and, from the second half, through almost untouched nature. Even there, in the second part, you can occasionally see signs of human presence, such as fences or huts in the distance. A few indigenous people live here, most of whom have dogs. So, as a hiker, you might encounter locals who are going about their activities or traveling between their village far beyond the summit and Boquete.
Caution is advised when meeting the dogs, as they are usually not in the mood for cuddles but are trained to protect their owners. However, if you don’t touch them uninvited or trespass on private property, nothing will happen.
Safety measures and preparation
Careful preparation is essential for hiking the Pianista Trail in Panama. It’s not a walk in the park but a strenuous hike with sections that pose a risk of injury. It’s easy to slip on the very slippery stones and slick roots. In some parts, the entire path is a muddy stretch that you have to wade through. You balance on fallen tree trunks and pull yourself up rocks using branches.
Hikers should check the weather conditions well in advance and ensure they are well-equipped. The following items are essential:
rain or wind jacket
sufficient water
nutritious snacks
insect repellent
sunscreen
flashlight in cloudy weather
phone with GPS and a tracking app (e.g. Strava what I used)
I recommend not hiking the trail alone but with an experienced guide who knows the route and potential dangers or at least in a group. A good guide will alert his hiking guests to particularly tricky spots and help them cross streams and fallen tree trunks. But he also has an eye and trained ear for the birds hiding in the trees that inexperienced tourists usually don’t discover on their own.
Those who have already read our book and thus followed my research in Panama know that I had Feliciano as a guide. He is the ultimate Pianista expert. No one hikes this trail as often or has done so for as long as he has. I couldn’t have wished for a more attentive and considerate companion for this controversial trail.
Cell phone reception on the Pianista Trail in Panama is poor. Before the summit, there are a few spots where you can get a signal, but these spots are sparse and unreliable. Sometimes you have reception, sometimes not. The most reliable place to find a signal is at the Mirador. So, it’s a good idea to bring a phone with GPS to help with orientation.
Where did the Pianista Trail in Panama get its name?
Pianista means pianist. The name may derive from the steady climbs that, like a keyboard, lead upward. Alternatively, the name may have come from the many different tones, from low to high, from bright to dull, that you hear as a visitor to the trail. They come from birds, frogs, trees, the wind, and nature itself. The sounds of the jungle give a unique concert here. It’s unclear which of the two inspired the name Pianista.
The mystical allure of the Pianista Trail
Despite the challenges and the somewhat eerie atmosphere due to the tragedy of Kris and Lisanne, the Pianista Trail exerts a mystical allure on me. The cloud forest is spectacular and nonexistent in Europe, where I’m from. Humans have nothing to say there – nature does what it wants. Everything grows into and around each other, is intertwined and dependent on one another. Other hikers I spoke to during my time in Boquete also reported that they stepped out of the forest at the end of their hike, fascinated, full of humility and awe for this natural wonder.
Where to start the Pianista Trail in Panama
The entrance to the Pianista Trail is about 4 kilometers from the town center, on the left side of the Italian restaurant Il Pianista. After a few meters, hikers reach the Río Pianista, a small stream that has a bridge over it for the past two years, thanks to Feliciano's efforts. After crossing, you pass a few small wooden huts where indigenous people live. Sometimes they sell plants at tiny stalls.
Shortly after the houses become fewer, the path meets the Arco Iris dairy, which belongs to the former president of Panama (you can find more about this in our book). To the left of it, another bridge crosses the Río Pianista again. Here, the pastures begin.
Conclusion
The Pianista Trail in Panama is a fascinating hiking trail, not suitable for everyone, but rewarding for those who dare with its incomparable beauty. Nature presents itself in a unique way here. Birds flutter by, trees are shrouded in mist, the scent of damp earth fills the air, treetops rustle, and your heart races as the hollow ways open up. The trail is gentle in the pastures, colorful and cheerful in the first part of the forested section, and gray and mystical just before the summit. In my opinion, it’s an unforgettable experience for anyone who is willing to embrace it.
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